The adhesive is very strong, and some serious force may be required. Work carefully. If you can see the tip of the opening pick underneath the front glass, pull the pick out just a little bit.http://howcoolisboulder.com/2786-mobile-phone-tracker.php
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While using the opening pick this deep won't damage anything, it may get adhesive residue all over the LCD. It may be necessary to move the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you release the adhesive. This depends on how long the iPad has been able to cool while you were working on it. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. Before removing the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, insert a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.
The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable.
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Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result. You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad.
Follow the next steps carefully. Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.
Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so.
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This step requires you to move the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is very close to the corner and is easily severed if the adhesive is released improperly. Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna approximately 3" 75 mm from the right edge, or right next to the home button re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.
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Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged. If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, reheat the iOpener to warm the adhesive where you are working.
Do not heat the iOpener more than a minute at a time, and always allow at least two minutes before reheating it. Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket. The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required.
Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad. If the adhesive has cooled too much, replace the iOpener along the top edge and continue working. If the iOpener has cooled too much, reheat it. If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick as shown in step 9. Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.
If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience.
However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work. Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is thin here due to the digitizer along the whole left side. The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" 50 mm from the bottom of the iPad. Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable. Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.
Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive. Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad. Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down. Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and rotate it out of the rear case.
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves. Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the digitizer cable off the shields on the logic board. Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case.
Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two sockets on the logic board. In order to remove the front panel assembly, the ribbon cable needs to slide out between the case and the LCD. You'll need to move the LCD to make some room. Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its cable will remain connected while it is rotated over. Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book. While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad.
Be careful not to snag the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD. In order to work on the iPad's innards, we need to flip the LCD back out of the case. Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book. Set the LCD face down on a clean surface.
You may want to rest it on a soft cloth to prevent scratches. Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front camera cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying upward on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the three 2 mm Phillips screws securing the SIM card slot to the rear panel. Remove the two 2. Use a plastic opening tool to help pull the headphone jack out of its recess in the top of the rear panel. Don't try to remove the assembly just yet, the ribbon cables are still connected.
Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front camera cable from the microphone cable immediately below it. Be careful not to damage the camera, microphone, or headphone jack ribbon cables as you remove the tape. If present, remove the piece of tape covering the end of the dock connector cable. Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock connector cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board. Place the prying tool beneath the 4 wires on the end of the connector and gently pry the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.
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Do not pry from the opposite end of the connector as this will break the 4 solder points on the underside of the socket and will require a microsolder repair. Use a plastic opening tool to flip up the retainer securing the upper component board cable connector to its socket on the logic board. Remove the four 2. The logic board is adhered to the rear case; work slowly and uniformly to peel up the glue without damaging the board.
Lift the logic board out from the rear case, and rotate it slightly toward the battery. Do not try to completely remove the logic board. There are still three antenna cables attached to it. Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the cellular data antenna cable from its socket on the communications board.
Remove the single 2. In this step you will remove the two pieces of tape securing the cellular data antenna cable to the rear case. Gently pry the cellular data antenna from the rear case with a plastic opening tool. Jul 18, 7: Jul 18, 9: X In response to Vintage. This would be a location issue, not something with the iPad. It just means there isn't 3G or Edge in your area. You'll find Google is a wonderful tool. Jul 18, It may cost you more to do this, since most carriers charge extra for roaming.
The main problem you face is probably that there simply isn't 3G coverage in your area. Unless you change your location, it's hard to fix. Nov 3, Well I must say that I find the replies on this thread very unhelpful, and its a shame since the apple community used to be a much nicer place and more understanding of users who didnt know everything. The answers given move to anouther location and dont hold the antenna" are pretty poor responces and quite frankly if you are of the apple community and you post replies like that you should be ashamed.
Yes they are technically correct, but provide no help to someone who knows nothing of 3g, or the ipad antenna system. The Ipad2 has 5 antennas in the 3g version, but there are 2 that you are interested in that provide the 3g. Of these one is located slightly off left of the home button at the back, and the other mounted along the top of the Ipad. Due to the positioning of these antennas, holding the ipad in landscape mode, will decrease the signal strength of the 3g, and make it harder to connect.
Portrate obviously is better. There are only 5 bars, so this is not very accurate. Well unfortunatly if you dont jailbreak your device then you are forced to make use of the 5 bars, watching to see if they jump from 1 to 2 bars for example. However, if you install "strength" from Cydia You will need to look up how to jailbreak your Ipad - hopefully you have not yet upgraded to IOS5 which you cant jailbreak yet , then this app can dertermine quickly and reasonably accurately the exact values of the 3g strength.
It displays them for you nicely between a sliding scale of bad and good with the bottom scale displaying the relative mean difference between these 2 values out of You really want to keep this value above 10 to be able to do anything nicely. The difference may be small, going from a value of 9 to 15 but this difference is large enough to make the 3g usable rather than unusable, with too many retransmissions etc. You would notice a good improvement in this above example in terms of internet responsiveness in a browser.
Anouther note, you will notice that the 3g signal bounces around a bit even when stationary, try to take the lower value of the bouncing as this is when retransmission occur, for example in a poor area in my house it bounces around from 14 - This is acceptable as its above 10 so not too many retransmisisons. If it was bouncing between 7 and 20, then this would mean at times you will hit "lag". Anouther good way to improve the 3g is to cheat.
Some apps allow this to be done, by first sending all your data through their servers and then compressing it before sending it to you. Examples include "mercury" a web browser which has a mobaliser option or "Onovo" which alters your APN of your ipad to do this. A better way, would be to tether your computer to the Ipad using a Cydia app called MyWi and then establish a vpn from your windows computer to a windows server with good internet connectivity eg your work.
This would help you if the server you are connecting to is running Windows RRAS and has "software compression" turned on. This is known as VJ compression and is pretty good, although linux doesnt support properly I never got it to work as far as I know which the ipad OS is based on so you must have the vpn established from your PC and the server must have that option allowed windows RRAS, has this turned on by default in and If ytou ran a speedtest before and after connecting your VPN you should notice an improvement in speed.
Again, this is a technical option requiring a windows PC and server supporting both options so help from IT admin at work would be required assuming this is allowed , and a jailbroken Ipad with Mywi to do the tethering, so probably not suitable for most people. Dont use this option in conjunction with Onovo either. As anouther member pointed out you can also mount an extarnal antennat to your house, then have the ipad connect to a base unit as in: You still need to mount the antenna in the best area you can though, not just randomly anywhere.
Rotation of the ipad can affect the signal as well as the angle hold it upright to a certain extend. Cheat by compressing data using tethered Ipad and VPN most technically difficult and not possible for most to using a browser like "mercury" easiest option and doesnt modify the ipad in any way but not very good solution. Jul 24, 4: I'm also having the same problem. But i noticed it was not so before I upgraded to the present software update.
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